India Day 7 - Train to Agra

Good sleep on the train but woken about 6 with a station stop which brought more people into our compartment, noisy people and a small child continuously saying "Papa".
Train running late (as usual) and now looking more like a 2pm finish. This could create issues with the Taj Mahal visit but we will see. Scenery from the train is great, mostly agricultural land with villages and a couple of small towns. Got very stuffy in the carriages so it was nice to just open a door and hang outside for some fresh air and a better view, something no way possible in Australia.
We had a birthday cake with candles for Renaye's birthday this morning which Priyanka arranged, a nice touch, not sure about the singing.
The loos once again are interesting, a stainless steel hole in the floor with raised foot pads, and let's just say the odour was not pleasant. Along the way I got out a couple of times to stretch the legs and was so tempted by the hawkers selling samosas as they smelt so good. Priyanka had one and said it was very good.
Many of the group caught sleep, played cards or just chatted during the day as the arrival time kept getting extended.
Finally after a 19 hour journey (6 hours late) that had already started nearly 5 hours late we arrived in Agra to a foggy evening, not looking good for the Taj Mahal tomorrow morning.
On to the hotel Atathi to freshen up, and the shower was so good, pity about the lack of towels. Got some lovely green and white striped beach towels when we asked as I think they thought we were going for a spa rather than understanding we didn't have bath towels.
After meeting at 7 we walked a little down the street to the Master Chef restaurant for dinner ( no allegiance to the tv series) where we had a good meal (cheena masala) with a couple of kingfishers before returning to the hotel at 10 for a well earned sleep on a comfortable mattress.
Getting low on the clean clothes front so going to have to get some washing done soon. The only issue being, even with quick dry items, nothing seems to dry.

India Day 6 - Varanasi

This morning up after 6 so nearly 11 hours sleep. Feel so much better, hopefully everything back in control. ;-) Off to the Haifa restaurant in tuktuk's for brekkie where I tried an Indian breakfast of cheese Paratha, juice and coffee. Very nice indeed, will have that again. From here we walked down to the Ganges for another stroll along the Ghat taking in the sights again. Love all the boats on the river banks, looks something really unique and appropriate. We then wandered back through the alleys and markets to a very popular place called the Blue Lassi, which has been operating for over 70 years and makes a yoghurt style fruit drink. Chose not to try this one at present but the others said they were good.
Priyanka then left us to do our own thing for the day as long as we were back to the hotel in time for the train to Agra. This 5.25 train eventually ended up being delayed 5 hours !!
Isabel and I then wandered the street markets and alleyways by ourselves as she wanted to by some jewellery and other stuff. I picked up two little metal toy Popeye (putput?) boats for 50 rupee, a bargain and had a great conversation with a shopkeeper for about half an hour while Isabel chose a necklace. Cricket, family, marriage and more cricket, the fundamentals in India.
After a few hours we returned to the hotel and were advised of the train delay so we all went back to the Haifa for dinner. Had a grilled paneer in onion, tomato and chilli gravy with cheese naan and rice, excellent again; stomach good but let's just keep giving those bowels a workout.
Finally we returned to the hotel and from there caught tuktuk's to the Varanasi railway station. A beautiful facade but as usual, filthy and in a poor state of repair. Have finally worked out all the red marking around pillars,drains etc, it is the stains from those spitting chewing tobacco.
Similar setup to the other train layout as before, but not quite as clean or modern, if I can use that word.
All settled in our bunks ( me in the top this time) and luggage secured for the night. Finally settled at midnight.

India Day 5 - Varanasi

So after a long day yesterday it was up at 5.30 this morning for a sunrise boat trip on Ganges. Small 16 seat tourist bus this morning as going elsewhere after.
Cruise was lovely on the same boat as last night. A lovely feeling on the river as quite a bit of fog around which gave the day a slightly eerie feeling. Also a little chilly.
We the went to the Open Hand cafe for breakfast which was a funny mix of indian and continental foods. I had the "Almost" Canadian breakfast of French toast with maple syrup and blueberries. And coffee, in a plunger, excellent!!! and good too.
It was then on the bus to Sarnath which was about 45 minutes out of the city to see the temples, and Bodhi tree, etc. By now once the fog had lifted, quite warm. Got to the temple just before it closes for lunch and and then had a guided tour around the ruins with an excellent guide explaining everything very well. Amazing ceremonial structures with so much history. Then into the museum with our guide and accompanying army official to look at some of the artifacts and back out to look at the tree Sarnath have his first teaching under. Actually not true as the original was 800 km away and this is a sapling taken to Sri Lanka and grown and then transported back and planted. Onto Tiberian monastery which was quite ornate before jumping on the bus back to town. Stopped on the way at chemist for a couple of us, electrolyte for me as couple days of diarreah staring to take its toll, not that well today as upset stomach as well, oh well fully expected and not as bad.
We stopped at a up market hotel on the way back for a late lunch early dinner , already 3.30 and it was great. Just had some falafel with yoghurt to hopefully ease the stomach and we all had a beer, why not.
Then back to the hotel and into bed by 7 for me, hopefully feeling better tomorrow. Couple long days.

India Day 4 - Varanasi

Great train journey, everything I expected. Had the middle bunk which though not easy to climb into was comfortable. The constant hum during the night of the occupants was comforting and the ride much smoother than expected. Woke at 2 and 4 when the train stopped at a couple of stations which had the brightest lights. Finally awoke at 6.30 just as we were crossing the Ganga river which was very wide with many sand banks. A little further along we passed what appeared to be tent camps, maybe army,  which we later learned were refugee camps for those fleeing Burma. Quite a pretty rural, agricultural landscape with a dotted house or very small village amongst the fields, though very flat.
We finally arrived at Varanasi around 9.30am, in a veil of fog. My travelling companion wished me well and if I was near her retreat I had an open invitation to meet her Guru.
We all climbed aboard the tuktuk's that Priyanka arranged and it was a fast and nonstop ride to our accommodation, the Hotel SLE. My god surely someone can invent a simple shock absorber solution for the tuktuk's so the vertebrae in your back don't get fused together every time you hit a bump or pothole.
We all showered before having a small meal followed with a little time free to find a shop for some essentials. If you thought Dehli was noisy and chaotic, Varanasi surpasses it easily. A cacophony of sounds assaults you the minute you walk outside, cars, tuktuk's, horns Bell's, yelling, whistles, every conceivable noise imaginable and the traffic!! There are NO rules, just every person for them selves, crazy, stressful and damn FUN. Surely there can be no way to get insurance in Varanasi.
We all them headed out to the old town to ok an AC restaurant for some lunch. It was great to watch the activity in the street below. Everything is is old, dirty and run down, if not falling down, absolutely fascinating place. Small stores or street vendors everywhere with cows/oxen wandering aimlessly along the streets and dogs lying around wherever they want.
After lunch we stepped outside into the choas again and grabbed tuktuk's to the ghat and the banks of the Ganges. We walked along for a distance to near one of the cremation areas but were advised to go no closer today as a couple of tourists had been assaulted earlier, probably doing something stupid or inappropriate as we have found the people to be so friendly and obliging. All I can say in relation to the scene is cows, dirt, beggars, pilgrims, monks, noise, kids playing cricket, boats, boat building and colour.
It was then back into century's old narrow laneways with the low doors and past altars in niches and cows that decided to charge myself and Kristin. Almost like Pamplona until a couple welding large sticks started shouting and hitting it. Now would be one to try and explain to the insurance company.
We then stopped at a small silk show hosting one of the alleyways where we were given a great lesson on silk, Kashmir (sheep) and Prashant.(goat). Did the burn test to determine if something was real silk and then shown hundreds of scarfs and rugs.
By this time it was dusk so we walked back to the river and jumped on a large wooden boat with the noisiest diesel motor for a river cruise along the ganges. There are so many fantastic buildings on the banks but all in disrepair, I keep wondering what it would have looked like in its hey day. When it was dark we were given tea candles and rose petals in a small woven bowl to place on the water in remembrance of a loved one which was lovely. We then sat out in the boat observing a Hindu daily ritual that is over 500 years old giving thanks to the Ganges. As usual, chanting, Bells, drums and candles.
Time for dinner now so we walk to a small place overlooking the river where everyone had pizza. I think about that time when you start to crave something other than curry. Some had the apple pie for dessert which many said said was the best they'd had. I had a lemon, ginger honey tea which was amazing, definitely having some more of these.
We then jumped back on some tuktuk's to go back to the hotel as it was already 10.30. Well we had aryton senna reincarnated as our driver, ducking and weaving through the traffic and finally going past our hotel, seperated from the rest and lost, great!! After giving a passerby who spoke some English the hotel card (great idea) and a phone call we eventually got back to the hotel. Priyanka blasted the guy and called him an "idiot", so out of character and funny to watch.
Great loooong day and finally to bed. Up early tomorrow for sunrise cruise.

India Day 3 - Delhi

Up at 7am this morning for the start of our Intrepid India getaway tour. 15 in total with our guide Preeanka; 2 Americans, 2 Belgium, 1 Pommy Australian, 1 Australian Pom and the rest Australian. 6 guys, so we are outnumbered, and guess what, I'm the oldest bastard and Isabel the youngest. Stuck with toast and coffee before we set off for the day.
First we went to the Karol Bagh Metro station and caught the train ( with a change from blue to yellow line) to Chandni Chowk we we started our meander through the markets. This is Old Dehli and it is obvious immediately. Wires everywhere, narrower roads, laneways etc. and sooo busy. Stopped at a good vendor for a marsala chai which was hot and sweet, not bad. Then on to the Jama Masjid  which is the largest Muslim mosque in India able to sit 25000 for prayer. We were able to walk around but not inside and for an extra 100 rupee we walked up one of the minaret for a higher viewpoint. The 121 steps were very steep and narrow but was worth the climb and getting intimate with those you passed. It was still quite foggy this morning and this actually added to the atmosphere.
From here we walked to the Gurwara Sis Gang Sahib Hindu temple where we had to remove our shoes and socks to enter and even the men had to cover their head. Apparently I didn't do a very good job of this by the look on the face of the rather large guy who replaced my efforts before we entered. A beautiful temple with chanting (all words on the multiple screens) and the "holy book" which is where he was beheaded, but more impressive was the Langer food hall. All food donated and made by volunteers it was for rich and poor alike who wished to eat.
From here we wound our way through the spice market, an overwhelming assault on the senses and stopped at one shop for and explanation. It was then a continuation through the streets past the wedding shops until we stopped for some late lunch. Had some Dosi, large flat bread with potatoes curry and finished with a creamy ifcream stick that tasted like a banana paddle pop.
It was the back to the HP via the Metro to chill for an hour (a cold kingfisher) and collect our bags before catching a cab to New Delhi railway station.
Now this was fun, 4 cabs in convoy through the mayhem of Dehli traffic. Absolute chaos, as there were multiple hold ups, we hit 2 cars, one other cab hit a person (only on the elbow/side apparently) and we finally arrived 20 minutes before the train departed. Talk about stress levels raised!!!!!
Walked to platform 13 and down to our sleeper carriage B1, and got on to find people already in our seats.  Negotiations commenced by Preeanka finally got things sorted and after a couple of hours every one had a seat and bed. I ended up seated to a lady who had just retired after 40 years as deputy head of trading of the India secretary department. Fascinating conversation over a number of hours and she was going to Varanasi for a seven day religious retreat to study with her Guru.
Continuous parade of people selling food, coffee and chai, both railway employees (green vest) and hawkers. 10 rupee for coffee and biscuits. 7 rupee for the coffee but so they don't have to give change you must buy the 3 rupee biscuits, classic.
Put up my bed, the back of our seat as I had the middle, Isabel top and the old lady bottom. Bloody squishy and hard to get into is all I can say. Warm so need for a blanket, and even with all the noises, movement, didn't take long to fall asleep.

India 2017 Day 2 - Dehli

Up for breakfast at 7.30 this morning and just can't decide what to do. Met a couple from Canberra that will be on the same tour. So glad we were here yesterday as today being a Monday ( nothing to do with Christmas) all govt sites etc are closed ( for cleaning apparently, but I certainly doubt that ).
In the end we decided to grab our cabbie again and do what we can, after getting some more loo paper for the bathroom first ;-)
First stop Lodi Gardens which was originally Lady Wellington gardens who established them by knocking down a few villages so she could be reminded of England. These were very nice, but dry at the moment. Also the Bara Gumbad tomb and Mosque were incorporated into the gardens which date back to the 16th century along with the tombs of Mohammed Shah and Sikandar Lodi hence the gardens name.
Heaps of military and security personnel around today as apparently the prime minister is around with his family. All along the streets and corners with all types of weaponry.
From here we then drove to see the Lotus temple but this was closed (due to cleaning of course) and it was just a quick photo over the fence before we went to the Iskon temple on the advice of Ravindra (the cabbie) and this was an excellent experience. This was a Hari Krishna temple and they were celebrating/ praying inside which we were allowed into. The Hari chant we all know has so much more reverence and meaning when observed like this, a great diversion.
It was then time to fill the belly and Ravindra dropped us off, God knows where, in a little back street restaurant no larger than a suitcase full of locals and some tourists. Great food again, some Cottage cheese thing in a sauce for me while Isabel had a lovely Aloo Jeera (potatoes and spicy veg) with garlic naan and rice.
Now off to the Sarfdarjung tomb, the last of the Mughal tombs completed in 1754 in their decline. An imposing structure but not considered in the same standard as the others in Delhi. I enjoyed it and would recommend a visit if time permits.
We then headed back to the HP via the Barjrang Bali manir with its pink and white facade and multitudes of swastikas on every nook and cranny. No photos allowed here sorry as was quite different to the previous Hindu temples. Then a quick stop at the ATM for some cash and back at the HP for a rest before the intrepid tour meeting at six.
Met our guide and fellow travellers and got to have an excellent local vegetarian dinner with them before finally retiring at 10; another long and enjoyable day of sightseeing.

India 2017 - First day in Delhi

After a fantastic sleep on a very comfortable mattress ( nothing to look at but so good) we wandered up to the rooftop for a bit of brekkie. Just toast and cornflakes with coffee and juice this morning, will ease our way into the local food. Last night's meal of cumin pakora and some small boiled potatoes in spices were great, along with a kingfisher of course.
Shower was good and trying desperately not to injest the water. Oh well we will soon see how good we are.
Off to the ATM to get some cash, asked the doorman where one was, so he walked us the two blocks to it and then escorted us back. Not because of safety, just courtesy, lovely.
Today we have booked a taxi for 8 hours for the grand sum of $50 who will drive us to a number of the sights. Just seemed easy and at the end of the day was a great move.
First stop was the Parliament house, Rashtrapati Bhavan (Presidential residence) and the north and south secretariat offices, which are just a stop and look due to security. Great examples of early 20th century British architecture. At the end of the Rajpath was the enormous India gate, which built to honour the 90,000 fallen of WW1. The names are inscribed in the stonework.
It was then onto Humayun's tomb. Amazing collection of buildings and gardens, but halfway through totally invaded by hundreds of schoolchildren. Built by 16th century Mugul emperor it predates the Taj Mahal and was well worth the visit.
Then onto the Qutb Minar raised in 1193 by conquering Afghan Muslim who destroyed the city to build this complex. Crowds were amazing as it was Sunday and these 3 days are when all India come to visit these places. Gotta love the foreigners lane though, no queueing for the excessive price of$10, love it.
Then we were taken to a textile place and the onto a stop for lunch, by now after 2pm. I had a fantastic chickpea with pomegranate seeds and ajwain, kasoori methi and  spices called Chana peshawari with some garlic naan, exquisite, definitely have this again. It was then onto the monkey temple and a Sihk temple before returning to the HP for a little rest.
On dusk we then ventured out into the night markets which are  everything you imagine India to be. Busy, crowded, noisy, dirty and FUN, just a wonderful experience. Didn't even buy anything!
Back for dinner which were some excellent veg spring rolls with a green chilli sauce and a Cottage cheese and veg curry for Isabel. Oh and a kingfisher of course. Not too late but a long fun packed day and now for a bit of shut eye.
Maybe the Red fort tomorrow.

India 2017 Departure and Arrival

Flight to Dehli and Arrival

Off we go on our adventure. Etihad 787-9 is a nice plane with good legroom, so a happy start to the trip. Little warm at times which actually was uncomfortable and caused a little sickness with Isabel but all good. Food was average but movie choice good( very  important). Got very little sleep as usual but a good flight until we got to Abu Dhabi as fogged in. About an hour delay before landing in the thickest fog I've flown in, could just see the tip of the wing, amazing. This of course lead to a delay in the flight to Dehli but all good.
Now this was the fun part; it was co-share flight so it was a Indian JetAirways flight. Must have been one of the oldest ( or least maintained) 737 and even though we had allocated seats it was first on best dressed in cattle class. Quite fun to watch the confused foreigners (including us) getting directed to other seats. Full size suitcases trying to be shoved in overhead, amusing. The vegan meal however was probably the he best airline meal I've had, so there you go.
Finally got to Delhi and was easy through customs etc before meeting our booked taxi to Hotel Perfect. Certainly smog bound and the traffic was something else; and the car horns, incessant.
Our hotel is in the Karol Bagh district which is full of markets, so after a small lie down we went for a wander. It is as people advised quite a cultural shock. Non stop hassling to buy something or hop in a tuktuk, and of course begging. That said absolutely fascinating.
After this back to HP for some dinner and a cold kingfisher, excellent. Then bed and a long sleep, hopefully.